Bolt Reporting & Replacement Is Up To All Of Us

Bolt boardBolt replacement is a top priority of the BCC. As our climbing anchors age, many require replacement to remain safe, which is both time-consuming and costly.

To date, working alongside partners, BCC has helped replace over 600 bolts! We also have organized several massive re-bolting single day efforts:

Check out this video of the Anarchy Wall day and these Daily Camera articles about the Roof Routes and Mickey Mouse Wall re-bolt days to get an idea of the work we’ve done.

HOW CAN I GET INVOLVED?

There are a variety of things you can do to help this effort:

  • Donate cash and become a member to help with the costs of bolt replacement
  • Report bad bolts when you see them
  • Take it a step further and become an FHP Assessor: Spend lots of time on the crags? Is Mountain Project your friend? Are you up for paying close attention to the fixed hardware you clip, and to be trained in qualifying the current condition of this hardware? Want to give back to your fellow climbers – and log this information for public use? If so, talk to us! Email fixedhardwareproject@gmail.com to get involved!
  • If you have bolting experience become an FHP Mechanic: Are you a deranged climber? Do you take joy in hauling large quantities of metal and cord up approach trails? Do you like to hang out on vertical walls in your harness for hours at a time with 25lbs of assorted gear and power equipment dangling about you? Are you intrigued by impossible puzzles based on unknowable facts buried in granite and sandstone walls? Do you get satisfaction in doing these things for free, with likely no other recognition for your time and efforts? If so, WE HAVE A JOB FOR YOU!!  Email fixedhardwareproject@gmail.com to get involved! And check out these awesome bolt-replacement video resources from the Access Fund.

Good bolt - bad boltsWell beyond our efforts, the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC), Action Committee for Eldorado (ACE), and American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) have also played a huge part in bolt replacement locally.

FIXED HARDWARE PROJECT

To address the growing need to replace aging anchors, BCC has launched a new initiative: our Fixed Hardware Project. In a nutshell, the FHP goals include:

  • Reduce potential climbing injuries
  • Provide hardware and organize events for independent volunteers who replace aged or sub-standard fixed anchors
  • Catalog  and publish “last-known” condition of fixed hardware in the region to help prioritize replacement efforts and inform climbers of route condition prior to climbing

This will ultimately require a monumental effort. To keep pace with aging hardware, our initial estimate is we need 60 bolts replaced every month at a cost of about $1000 and requiring 20 volunteer days. That’s a lot! Read more about the FHP in their charter document. You can also read our Assessor’s Field Guide.

ARE YOU CURRENTLY DEVELOPING NEW ROUTES?

If you are using plated steel (inferior, shorter-lasting) hardware instead of stainless steel (better, longer-lasting), we’ve got some great news for you! Thanks to a new partnership with ClimbTech we’ll be able to extend a nearly 50% discount on stainless steel hardware! We’re doing this to encourage developers to use stainless steel during initial installation, and hopefully slow down the need for bolt replacement later. Interested in this deal? Contact Jason Haas at jason@fixedpin.com.

ClimbTech